What else I want in a stereo...
This discussion takes off from the capabilities of the following
three pieces of gear...
To learn what they already have, please visit the pages for them as linked
above.
The Tuner
This is the area where I'd like to see the most additional features. Tuners,
from my point of view, are far too simplified. Here's the scoop:
- A scope is great, but I want meters too, so I don't have to use up the scope
tube all the time. And I want four meters: Center, modulation, strength and
multipath. While we're at it, multiple scope displays would be good too. Yeah, I
want multiple scopes - four of 'em, just like the meters, plus one more for RF
spectrum (see below).
- I want to be able to disable the AGC and set the RF gain manually.
- I want user variable AGC rates, including a DC setting so I can control the
AGC of the RF amps myself.
- I want continuously variable hi-blend, instead of on/off.
- I want all scope controls, including brightness and intensity, on the front
panel. My feeling is that if you have to reach behind the equipment, ever,
then the designers have failed.
- I want a "spectrum" display for the scope... so I can see what
frequencies are active.
- I want continuously variable bandwidth for the AM section.
- I want an IF notch filter for the AM section.
- I want a synchronous carrier receive mode for the AM section.
- Although I far prefer an analog tuner to a digital one, I would
like a digital readout of the tuned frequency as well as the
linear dial. And I want the linear dial to be exactly
right to the point where it has a mirrored scale like a multimeter
for spot-on, razor accurate tuning.
- I want all dial illumination to be sourced from white or colored LEDs, so we can stop
this bulb-changing madness.
- I want the meters calibrated... signal strength in microvolts,
audio in dB, etc.
- I want the AM tuner sensitive. Why is it that a HAM or SW receiver
provides sub-microvolt senstivity, and the best tuner I've ever run across
(which is this 2130) goes only to 10 uV?
- I want the AM ferrite antenna to be (a) detachable and (b) able to be
taken completely out of the circuit if you're using an external
antenna. I wish designers would stop using the dammned ferrite bar as
part of the oscillator circuit - that's half the problem with the AM
tuner sections right there!
The Amplifier
The only thing wrong with the 300dc design is that it leaves the switching of
the speakers to the preamp; the headphone jack is on the preamp as well. I understand
the idea of centralizing all the user controls, but face it, the more high power
(speaker level) connections you have, the more trouble you get into. Speaker
selection and headphone jack(s) should be on the amp, unless the preamp has its
own headphone amp (which, as you'll see, I think it should... it makes no sense
to me at all to run a 150w/channel amp to listen to a milliwatt's worth of
music!
Certainly if you need more power, you'd want a bigger amp, but in my opinion,
150w/channel is enough to do you harm if you have done a decent job selecting
speakers and setting up your listening location. I know it's enough to really annoy
my neighbors, and my house is 50 feet from them... :)
The Preamp
Ah, preamps. Well, let's see. About a 20-band EQ, instead of bass, mid, treble
(though the 1300/3650 have just about ideal BMT controls). More inputs. That's
the biggest fault - you need about 5 auxes, three tuners, two phonos, two mics,
three tape decks as normal input selections (so you can EQ them, just like
any other source), at least three complete processor loops so you can
add dynamics processors, click and pop reducers, etc.
How about a couple of headphone amps? What is it about audio manufacturers
that makes them assume that (first of all) one headphone jack is enough? When
I listen, I much prefer to have my sweetheart at my side. Since headphones can
offer an extremely high quality listening experience, why not share? So, at least
two phone jacks. With an amp, it's not like the power to drive them isn't there.
And if you were putting in headphone-specific amps like I'm describing here,
you'd still want two. Good audio is better when shared, I maintain. Finally,
it's stupid - S-T-U-P-I-D - to run a (for instance) 150 w/rms/channel amp like
my Marantz 300dc in order to drive a few milliwatts into a headphone. To which I would
add that since there are large resistors between the amp and the headphone
transducer, the amp's ability to sense, and therefore control, the transducer
is severely limited compared to that of something that drives it directly.
Timers, relay-controlled AC outlets and some switch closures so you could
automate anything from a morning wake-up to a full recording session.
Entirely discrete components - and every one of them in a gold plated socket.
Sure would be nice to be able to repair something without taking the risk of
ruining it...
Back to my "Stereos" page
Questions or comments? Email me:
ben@blackbeltsystems.com